2022 Domaine Hubert Lamy Chassagne-Montrachet Le Concis du Champs
The Wine Advocate
RP 91
Reviewed by:William Kelley
Release Price:NA
Drink Date:2025 - 2045
Aromas of pear, green apple, freshly baked bread and subtle hints of citrus blossom introduce the 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Le Concis du Champs, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and racy wine with good depth and cut. This is a specially strong rendition of this bottling, produced from massal selections planted at 14,000 vines per hectare.
Olivier Lamy and his vines appear to have handled the 2022 growing season admirably, despite the hydric deficit and warm conditions. This is an estate whose wines have generally demanded a bit of patience out of the gates, yet the 2022s are especially charming, exhibiting a youthful expressiveness and sense effortless this year that makes them especially appealing. Bottling under Diam 30, with concomitantly somewhat lower levels of free sulfites, surely has something to do with it. But it's probably also simply the result of over two decades' work coming together in a seamless synthesis. Whether it's cutting-edge viticulture, including plantings at over 20,000 vines per hectare and unhedged canopies; extended maturation on the lees, which now amounts to 24 months in total, 23 of those in largely neutral wood; obsessive attention to closures and bottling practices; or a host of other small details that, cumulatively, make the difference between the best and the rest, Lamy has spared nothing to get to where he is today. While his ultra-rare Haute Densité bottlings are now almost impossible to source, readers will still find it easy to secure his more modest cuvées. Everything here comes warmly recommended.