COMMENT
若々しい輝きに満ちた色調。ミネラル感がありフローラルな香り、フレッシュな果実や柑橘類のアロマがあります。
バランスが非常に優れたヴィンテージとなりました。リッチで美しく、太陽に恵まれたこのテロワールを反映したワインです。
2022 Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière
The Wine Advocate
RP 94+
Reviewed by:William Kelley
Release Price:NA
Drink Date:2027 - 2050
The 2022 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière is showing brilliantly, offering up aromas of pear, orange oil, toasted hazelnuts and warm stones. Medium to full-bodied, dense and satiny, with a layered core of fruit, chalky structuring extract and a long, precise finish, I sometimes think that this cuvée—from old, virused vines in one of Saint-Aubin's most historic terroirs for Chardonnay—is one of the most underrated in Lamy's range.
Olivier Lamy and his vines appear to have handled the 2022 growing season admirably, despite the hydric deficit and warm conditions. This is an estate whose wines have generally demanded a bit of patience out of the gates, yet the 2022s are especially charming, exhibiting a youthful expressiveness and sense effortless this year that makes them especially appealing. Bottling under Diam 30, with concomitantly somewhat lower levels of free sulfites, surely has something to do with it. But it's probably also simply the result of over two decades' work coming together in a seamless synthesis. Whether it's cutting-edge viticulture, including plantings at over 20,000 vines per hectare and unhedged canopies; extended maturation on the lees, which now amounts to 24 months in total, 23 of those in largely neutral wood; obsessive attention to closures and bottling practices; or a host of other small details that, cumulatively, make the difference between the best and the rest, Lamy has spared nothing to get to where he is today. While his ultra-rare Haute Densité bottlings are now almost impossible to source, readers will still find it easy to secure his more modest cuvées. Everything here comes warmly recommended.
Published: Jan 31, 2025